Product Information

  • Q. I would like to purchase one of your products. Where and how can I do this?

    A. PG Flooring as a longstanding network of highly specialized and well documented retailers. Find the retailer closest to you.

  • Q. I’m having problems understanding the difference between grade and quality. If I choose Select and Better, the quality is better, isn’t it?

    A. Effectively, many people believe that buying Select and Better means buying a better quality product. However, product quality is associated with the production method, while grade is associated with product colour. The grade refers to the number of characteristics allowed and the natural colour of the wood. For example, colour variation in the boards and the presence of small knots and mineral streaks is more markedly present in the Instinct grade than in the Select and Better grade.

    Refer to the “Documnents - Other documents” section to see the differences inherent in each grade. Do not forget that all PG Flooring products, irrespective of grade, are manufactured with the same attention to detail. It’s up to you to choose the grade best suited to your rustic or contemporary style project.

  • Q. Is solid hardwood flooring better than engineered flooring?

    A. One is not better than the other. Each has specific properties that justify its use. Solid hardwood flooring is made of wood ¾ inches thick and can be sanded up to seven times. In most cases, it is used in residences when flooring can be nailed to a wood surface.

    Engineered wood is recommended when the flooring is to be glued in place. Owing to its ¼ inch thickness, engineered flooring is often used in multiple-storey buildings (e.g., condos) or basements. Engineered flooring is very versatile and considered more stable that solid hardwood flooring. However, despite its great stability, ambient humidity must be carefully monitored.

  • Q. I am looking for hardwood flooring devoid of colour variations. Is this possible?

    A. The Select and Better grade offers the very best colour uniformity in wood flooring. However, wood is a living material, and despite the highest classification standards, colour variations will be present on some boards, irrespective of grade, species and colour. Most experienced installers work with several boxes of boards at once to ensure that colour variations are mixed and spread to achieve the most harmonious appearance possible.

Installation information

  • Q. Can hardwood flooring be installed over vinyl floor covering?

    A. Installing hardwood over vinyl can pose some problems. To obtain the best result, hardwood flooring must be installed over a clean, flat subfloor that meets manufacturer recommendations. For more details, refer to our installation guides.

  • Q. What types of wood flooring can be installed over concrete slabs?

    A. Thanks to new kinds of wood flooring, you can now install a Cohesion Engineered floor on concrete. Wood flooring maintains its beauty for several years when installed properly. The use of recommended adhesives and a compatible vapour barrier contribute to a failsafe installation. Moreover, several possibilities are open to you if you prefer solid hardwood flooring. 

  • Q. What causes cracking sounds in my floor?

    A. There are several reasons why floors make cracking sounds:

    Relative humidity: Ensure that the relative humidity in your house is neither too high nor too low. This may explain why your floor loosens and becomes noisy. A humidity rating between 37% and 45% is ideal.

    Wrong type of subfloor: For nailed flooring, the subfloor must be made of plywood or OSB panels; the use of particleboard is not recommended.

    Wrong subfloor thickness: The recommended panel thickness is ¾ inches (plywood or OSB) for joists spaced apart 19 inches or less, centre to centre. Spacing exceeding 19 inches or a greater span can result in deflection, leading to cracking sounds.

    Board direction: Boards are installed in the same direction as the joists.

    Structural weakness: The subfloor is not firmly anchored to the joists with flooring screws; there are gaps between the subfloor and the joists.

    Lack of anchors: When boards are not anchored securely, they may move and lead to cracking sounds. Each board must have a minimum of two nails two inches from board ends, ideally spaced at eight-inch intervals in relation to the board length.

  • Q. Is 15-lb construction paper an efficient vapour barrier?

    A. Construction paper slows down the migration of humidity between the subfloor and boards, but does not act as a vapour barrier. Tar-free vapour barrier paper is required.

  • Q. Can I install my flooring boards in the same direction as the joists?

    A. We do not recommend installing boards in the same direction as joists because movement in the latter will result in the appearance of gaps between the boards. In cases where it is impossible to install the boards perpendicular to the joists, install ½ inch plywood panels over the existing subfloor, taking care to stagger the joints between the overlapping panels.

  • Q. have a radiant heating system. Can I install wood over it?

    A. It is possible to install hardwood flooring over radiant heating, but certain precautions must be taken to ensure a successful installation. Refer to our installation guides for more details.

  • Q. I recently acquired PG flooring. Is transition moulding available?

    A. Yes, different types of moulding are available, including nosing, reducers, quarter-rounds and T moulding.

Maintenance information

  • Q. What steps need I follow to maintain my prefinished hardwood flooring?

    A. Keeping your flooring looking its best for many years requires maintenance and ambient humidity control. Compliance with our maintenance instructions is a determining factor of your warranty. Normal maintenance of prefinished flooring is simple and quick. PG cleaning products have been tested on our varnishes and their use will ensure that your floor remains beautiful looking for years to come.

    Step 1: Vacuum regularly.

    Step 2: Spray the cleaning product on the mop cover and rub a section of flooring back and forth in the direction of the boards.

    Unadvisable: The use of wax, household cleaners and oil-based soap on flooring is not recommended, nor is cleaning flooring with a mixture of water and vinegar or using a steam cleaner. These products may damage the flooring and void your warranty.

Information in case of problem


  • Q. If my son drops a toy on the hardwood floor, will it mark it?

    A. Although we use the terms hardwood in English and bois franc in French, this does not make your flooring a product resistant to all kinds of marks caused by dropped objects or even high heeled shoes.

    Each species has its own characteristics. Some withstand compression better than others. Wood hardness is measured with the Janka test.

  • Q. The boards of my flooring seem to be swelling and are starting to look wavy or like a washboard. What is causing this to happen?

    A. This phenomenon is due to a variation in the internal humidity of the wood. This is not related to a defective product. It is caused by environmental conditions.

    There are several reasons for changes in humidity:

    Humidity too high in the subfloor or a very damp basement: The underside of the board absorbs more humidity than its top side, resulting in unequal swelling between the underside and top side of the board and the cupping effect.

    Leaks or water spilled on the floor: Water infiltrates between the boards and is absorbed by their undersides. This results in swelling on the topside and the cupping effect.

    Relative humidity too high: During very humid periods, the wood absorbs humidity from the ambient air and expands. Since the boards are anchored to the floor they cannot expand freely and press against each other, causing cupping. Insufficiently large expansion joints can exacerbate the problem.

    A stable climatic environment in the house is the key to the optimum stability of wood flooring. Refer to our installation guide, in the documents section, for more details

  • Q. Boards in my floor have gaps. What is happening?

    A. The appearance of gaps between boards is the result of internal variations of humidity within the boards. This is not related to a defective product. It is caused by environmental conditions.

    There are several reasons for changes in humidity:

    Boards too humid prior to installation: The boards were installed when their internal rate of humidity was too high. Increased humidity can be caused by several factors such as storing the boards in an environment that is too damp (concrete not yet cured, damp subfloor, fresh paint, etc.); boards delivered while it is raining outdoors and their transportation indoors, etc. The wood absorbs humidity and swells before installation. Once the flooring is installed and ambient humidity returns to normal, the wood loses its excess humidity and contracts, leaving visible gaps between the boards.

    Relative humidity too low: The humidity rate in the air is too low (often the case in winter) and the boards tend to lose their humidity and contract. This happens quite frequently in winter and, in most cases, the boards return to their original form the following season.


  • Q. I’ve noticed marks and scratches on the floor in my kitchen. What can I do to remedy the situation?

    A. PG offers a repair kit for minor repairs. For major retouches, however, we recommend complete replacement of the board.

  • Q. Your warranty recommends placing protective carpeting in some locations. What type of carpeting should I put on my hardwood flooring?

    A. Use carpets and maps that will not run when damp. Ensure that the carpet underside is not rough or made of natural rubber. Soft, synthetic undersides are safe if equipped with holes to allow the flooring to breathe. Clean regularly under carpeting to remove dust and other abrasive dirt. To avoid colour changes to flooring, occasionally move carpeting about.

  • Q. The installer just left and I noticed that some boards have glue residue on them; how do I remove it?

    Ideally, excess glue should be wiped up as the installation progresses. Use lighter fluid or acetone or the cleaner recommended by the glue manufacturer. Apply using a clean cloth. Always use these products with care and test on an inconspicuous surface beforehand to ensure that they do no damage the flooring.
  • Q. The colour of the moulding does not match the rest of the floor.

    A. Wood is a natural material and it colour varies, depending on the cut, grain configuration and mineral steaks present. For best results, boards near moulding should be chosen from among those with the colour best matched to the moulding to avoid abrupt transitions.

  • Q. My flooring seems yellowish around the edges of my furniture.

    A. Yellowing or changes in the colour of wood is a natural phenomenon. Wood itself changes colour as it ages and sunlight will affect the colour of your hardwood flooring. Although all our finishes contain an anti-yellowing ingredient that delays and diminishes this phenomenon, the flooring will age and a more or less pronounced colour variation will appear, depending on the species. To minimize this effect, occasionally move furnishings and carpets around.


  • Q. I can wash my floor with water.

    A. False. Wood and water don’t mix well. Wood fibres swell when they absorb water. This can deteriorate the wood and the finish of your flooring. When water infiltrates flooring, it can result in dimensional changes to the boards, wood discolouration and the development of mould between the boards. The kitchen and hallway are locations where water often comes in contact with wood. Special attention should be paid to these locations where wood is installed to avoid contact with any kind of liquid.

    Recommendation: Wipe up spills (water, liquids, detergents) immediately before they are absorbed by the wood fibres. Place mats in front of kitchen sinks, the dishwasher and workstations in the kitchen. Use carpets at door entrances to collect water and snow.

  • Q. My floor is scratchproof.

    A. False. No floor is scratchproof. Install felt spacers on furniture and chair legs and protect your floor when moving furnishings about. Place carpets in front of door entrances and in high traffic areas. Install a protector under your computer chair.  Sweep or vacuum the floor regularly.  

  • Q. If there are colour variations in my floor, I must have received a bad batch of wood.

    A. False. Wood is classified and sawed according to established standards. We make every effort to supply consumers with the very best quality flooring. Experienced installers work with several boxes of wood at the same time to ensure the best possible uniformity.

  • Q. Long boards mean better quality.

    A. In truth, the longer the board, the more it will tend to warp. The quality of our product is very important, and offering a defect-free product is one of our foremost concerns. To maintain the highest quality standards, we cut away wormholes, small open knots, some tiny cracks and anything else that might have a negative impact on the topside of our boards. We elect to offer only the very best quality possible.